Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
